Drag to orbit — tilt down to look into the pot and see the drainage holes in the floor, or under it to see the feet.
Drainage
Real through-holes, not dimples: a grid of — holes, each — mm across with — mm of solid floor between neighbors, cut straight through the — mm base. The grid is worked out per size from the base's own usable radius, kept clear of the outer wall seam and of every foot, so the floor stays solid where it needs to be.
Feet, not a saucer
— small round risers on the underside, printed as part of the same single piece, lift the base — mm off whatever it stands on — so water leaving the holes can actually run out from underneath instead of pooling flat against a sill. Three rather than four on purpose: three points always sit flat, so it never rocks on an uneven surface. There is no separate saucer or tray; stand it on a dish if you don't want runoff on the surface below.
Shape and wall
A classic tapered pot — the base is —% of the rim's diameter — so a root ball slides out for repotting instead of wedging into a straight tube. Walls are — mm thick, built from solid perimeter loops rather than sparse infill so wet potting mix doesn't wick through, and the base is a thicker — mm to carry the weight of the soil column.
The name
Capital letters — mm tall, each one placed individually around the curve of the wall so the whole word follows the pot, cut in as a shallow cavity and filled with a flush plug in its own color. One line on the front face; a name too wide for it is shortened at a word break to fit.